Geylang is one of the best-known areas of Singapore – mostly because of its previous reputation as a red-light district.
But that dodgy aspect is just a small part of the story.
While “unique” is an over-used term, it certainly applies to Geylang, and re-exploring the area proved to be well-worthwhile.
There’s an undeniable, raw authenticity that permeates the area.
Geylang still feels something like the Singapore of the early days of the Republic, compared with more sanitised areas such as Tiong Bahru and Balestier.
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Wide selection of local food in Geylang
Geylang is a culinary haven for those seeking the taste of genuine local and regional delights.
From peppery bak kut teh to Hokkien mee wok-fried over a roaring charcoal flame, the district is home to many an iconic Singapore dish.
It is reputed as the birthplace of frog porridge, with many famous joints (including Michelin Bib Gourmand awardee Eminent Frog Porridge & Seafood) serving the amphibian in a claypot with heaps of ginger and spring onion.
Besides Chinese, Indian, and Malay food, Geylang also offers a diverse range of other ethnic cuisines, including Vietnamese and Burmese fare. It is also the go-to place for the ‘king of fruits’, with durian sellers lining the streets.
The unmistakable aroma of the “stinky durian”, as it was advertised by a durian seller, got my attention even before the stall itself came into view.
Religious diversity and harmony
I’m always reassured to see a variety of cultural and religious organisations, including mosques, temples, and churches, operating peacefully, side by side.
Some of the religious landmarks that caught my eye were the Masjid Khadijah, Sri Sivan Temple and Geylang Evangelical Church, as well as institutions like the Sui Yuan Ju Buddhist Society that are more discreetly tucked away in the lorongs.
While other areas of Singapore have various religious institutions side by side side by side, there seems something more serendipitous about how this has come about in Geylang, which (somewhat ironically) boasts the highest concentration of religious sites in Singapore to this day.
These various organisations not only contribute to the unique character of the area, they are also a practical example of the religious and ethnic harmony we enjoy in Singapore – something that should never be taken for granted.
Geylang’s classic pre-war architecture showcasing heritage
Geylang retains many traditional shophouses that showcase the architectural heritage of Singapore.
While in many areas of Singapore, such as Tiong Bahru, shophouses are being gentrified, in Geylang, they look much as they have for decades – although, unfortunately, many of them are dilapidated.
The well-restored Eastern Aerated Water Company building is one of the exceptions, where the carbonated bottle drinks factory has given way to a residential development, while preserving its original frontage.
Geylang’s reputation for colour nightlife
The mention of Geylang often elicits a smile and a wink due to its reputation for risqué nightlife and questionable entertainment.
I will always remember the first time someone explained the difference between the odd- and even-numbered lorongs (for those who don’t know, brothels were only allowed on the even-numbered lorongs).
Perhaps only in Singapore would such a thing be so organised. But beyond its red-light reputation, Geylang offers a vibrant nocturnal scene, with many options ranging from karaoke bars to pubs and nightclubs.
Great location
One of the lesser-known pluses of Geylang is its central location. Want to go to the city centre? It’s just five stops straight to Raffles Place on the East-West MRT line.
Travelling to Changi Airport also is convenient – just seven stops by MRT in the opposite direction.
Being right next to myriad shopping and eating facilities at Paya Lebar also makes the area super convenient.
And, of course, its proximity to the National Stadium proved to be very advantageous during the times of popular concerts (like Taylor Swift and Bruno Mars), as the price of so-called ‘budget’ hotels in the area skyrocketed to $500 a night and more.
Geylang, with its unique buzz and authenticity, is much more than just another district of Singapore.
It’s a time capsule that provides an opportunity to bask in the atmosphere of the past, savour authentic food, and appreciate some of the more characteristic and enduring aspects of Singapore and its history.
