When Andy Yap first thought about opening an outpost of his Mexican restaurant Margarita’s in Dempsey Hill, his friends were sceptical.
'It's just a jungle,' they said. But the developers had a vision, and I was quite convinced they could see it through,
reflects the 65-year-old.
His business senses turned out to be right. Now, almost two decades later, Dempsey Hill is a buzzy lifestyle destination bustling with activity, whether you’re there at night for a quick drink or visiting during the weekend.
Meanwhile, Margarita’s still stands strong, owning the now-crowded Mexican niche even in the face of star-studded neighbours with international acclaim.
Though a scrupulously authentic menu informed by Andy’s frequent travels to Mexico has played a part in its success — not to mention an abundant supply of agave tequila — he gives the most credit to his longstanding patrons.
It's been very heartening to walk this journey with our customers – I'm always mindful and thankful for the regulars who've patronised us all the way. Some bring their office down for parties, some have had their weddings here, some come straight from the airport when they're back in Singapore. I'm just happy to celebrate these milestones with them,
says the restaurant operator.
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Over 160 years of history in Dempsey Hill
Funnily enough, Andy’s fateful decision to open Margarita’s in Dempsey Hill wasn’t driven purely by dispassionate instinct. He was also going with his gut.
I'll be honest – there was a certain nostalgia drawing me there, because it's the place where I had my pre-enlistment medical check-up, and where I did my actual enlistment,
he says with a chuckle, referencing the estate's more-than-160-year history spanning into Singapore’s colonial past.
Before stepping into its current identity as a bohemian enclave, Dempsey Hill was a military headquarters and barracks for the Singapore Armed Forces (SAF). Most notably, it housed the Central Manpower Base (where all Singaporean men must report to for registration before enlistment), the Tanglin Dental Centre and the SAF Music and Drama Company (which produced many local talents including Jack Neo, Kumar and Ivan Heng).
Before that, it was a nutmeg plantation hit by blight, bought over and converted into a garrison for British soldiers back when Singapore was still a colony. Though most of the hill’s history was largely peaceful, The Tanglin Barracks, as it was known then, once served as an internment centre for British prisoners of war when the Japanese took over.
This eventually gave rise to legends about purported supernatural activity at several blocks in Tanglin camp – not that Andy paid any heed when it was time for him to move into Dempsey Hill in the late-2000s.
Margarita’s one of the earliest tenants in modern Dempsey Hill
Though the area was fresh out of a $3 million redevelopment by local property company Country City Investment then, Andy says that Margarita’s was the first to get their restaurant up and running.
The first few months were tough. Somehow, I was able to get everything going in about three months, while other tenants took closer to five or six months. So there were a few weeks where we were the only restaurant open at night, and it was totally dark at every other corner,
he says.
The only unexpected presence he’s experienced came much later in 2020 when the Covid-19 pandemic struck.
"As humans disappeared, animals came back out in full force. There were snakes, monkeys, wild chickens – even otters, who came by for a swim at the pond outside our restaurant."
I was later told that they had snacked on some of the koi at another pond on the other side of the hill before that, meaning they came by to relax after their meal,
he says with a laugh.
Self-guided audio tour of Dempsey Hill now available
Having operated since 1988 with locations at Faber Drive and East Coast Road (both now closed), there’s plenty of history to be found within the walls of Margarita’s itself.
Mostly, you’ll find a sizable collection of paintings and paraphernalia either reminiscent of or directly sourced from Mexico, which, together with its high ceilings and colourful furniture, help to give the restaurant vibes typical of a “hacienda” (a Spanish term for a large plantation home).
I think Dempsey Hill's popularity stems from a few things. It's just a few minutes from Orchard Road by car, which makes it convenient. But it’s also full of greenery, which makes visitors feel like they’ve been transported to a totally different space,
he says.
"Plus, the parking is free (laughs)."
This isn’t just good news for the usual visitors to Dempsey Hill. You can now make use of this free parking to find out more about the history of the enclave with an immersive audio tour jointly developed by Klook, Dempsey Hill and Cinewav.
As it is a self-guided tour, you can pause and resume the tour at any time, giving you plenty of leeway to soak in the greenery and enjoy a margarita or three at, well, Margarita’s (one of the stops on the tour).
Margarita’s Dempsey Hill
Location: 11 Dempsey Road, Singapore 249673
Opening Hours: Daily, 11:30am – 10:30pm
Tel: +65 6471 3228
Website: https://www.margaritasrestaurante.com/