If you want to escape the city, there are still some spots in built-up Singapore where you can enjoy a trip back in time.
Sembawang offers an opportunity to slip out of the city’s grasp into pockets of old-world charm.
You can already feel it on the drive along the Seletar Expressway headed to Sembawang; the vast open spaces that still exist in Singapore.
Some might call them ’empty’ or ‘vacant’, but it’s far from empty – these areas teem with lush forests and the wonders of nature.
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Black-and-white houses
Upon arriving in Sembawang, you have to take in the area with iconic black-and-white houses, constructed between the 1920s and 1940s to accommodate the British military personnel stationed at the Sembawang Naval Base.
This was an important British military installation from the early 20th century up to 1965 when Singapore gained its independence.
Dotting the vast expanse of greenery, these homes look sturdy, unfazed and unchanged by the passage of time.
One can’t help but imagine how good life must have been for the British military families who stayed there back in the day when the rest of civilian society was trying to make ends meet.
It is surprising to see how many of these houses remain intact and still serve their original purpose as residences, although the profile of the residents has obviously changed.
It seems that many of the black-and-white houses are leased to expatriates living in Singapore and working for multinational corporations, diplomatic missions, or international organisations, who are attracted by the unique charm, seclusion, and tranquillity of the area.
The neighbourhood is remarkably peaceful, with just a few people jogging or walking dogs, and a private security car patrolling. The nostalgic sound of crickets evoke a sense of the bygone kampong days.
As do street names, such as King’s, Queen, Gibraltar, Malta, Canada, Bermuda, Montreal, among others, which serve as reminders of the reach of a once unrelenting British empire.
There is also a classic pre-war apartment block nestled among the black-and-whites; different, but somehow fitting in.
This part of Sembawang appears to be frozen in time, but there are ominous signs of construction.
While driving along Admiralty Road East, it’s impressive to see how well-maintained the non-residential black-and-white structures are, though it does raise questions about their future use.
Protective presence
The historic Sembawang Naval Base is now the site of Singapore’s Sembawang Camp, which you can still glimpse from the grassy slopes where the black-and-white houses are located.
Sembawang Camp is part of the Singapore Armed Forces’ larger military complex, indicating that the area still plays a vital role in the defence and security of the Republic.
And from an economic standpoint, while most of Singapore’s port facilities are located in the southwest (soon to be relocated to Tuas), Sembawang Port’s location along the Straits of Johor, makes it strategically important and provides access to the eastern part of Indochina.
Along Admiralty Road West lie the dormitories for foreign workers – an essential part of modern Singapore.
It is good to see dormitories back to normal, as the handling of them during the recent Covid-19 pandemic was a hot topic.
A walk in the park
No visit to Sembawang would be complete without a trip to Sembawang Park. At the entrance of the park, a large congregation catches my attention.
Upon approaching the group, and enquiring about the nature of occasion, I am informed it is the annual gathering of Myanmarese living and working in Singapore.
Music fills the air, and some of the talented performers are more than happy to have their pictures taken.
Upon reaching Sembawang Park, a diverse group of people of various ages armed with long prongs and plastic bags, are bustling.
It turns out they are members of a group called Boulder Planet, who have taken time out from their usual activity of providing climbing experiences, to engage in litter-picking; in line with their mission of being responsible global citizens.
The park, alive with activity — picnicking, kayaking, fishing — and with its views of nearby Malaysia and the massive ships in Sembawang Shipyard, offer a unique atmosphere.
Waves gently washing up on the beach, people of diverse ethnicities mingling and enjoying their weekend, and carefree children at play all serve to create an idyllic setting.
However, this also sets me thinking about the many people around the world who are not so fortunate, and that we should never take for granted are the safety and simple joys of life available to us here in Singapore.
Sembawang is an off-the-beaten-track gem to be treasured.
