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Watch For Opportunities In The Watch Market

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Watch For Opportunities In The Watch Market
Before the era of smart devices, watches served a useful function. They told the time.
They also became rather nice items of jewellery as watchmakers latched on to the idea of combining the skills of artisans from different ateliers.
Watchmakers, jewellers, leather craftsmen, case makers, are just some parts of a larger network that grew into a huge global industry.
Watch brands proliferated in the latter part of the last century to match the needs of a rising upper middle class.
Singapore, despite its small size, commanded a large watch market which saw brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Omega find willing wrists. New brands also emerged, eager for a slice of the action.
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Many collectors grew out of this scene, and many collections are probably still lying in cabinets and safes around the island.
The advantage watches had over many other collectibles were their portability and the wide range in prices, so almost anyone could start a collection — from a humble plastic Swatch to a blinged-up Graff Diamonds creation.
It was something you could show off. And for those who built up substantial collections, the opportunity to transact was always something that you knew you could fall back on, on a rainy day.
But do you have a collection that is worth something? If you’ve got some old models from desirable brands, you could be holding on to a fortune.
If you’d purchased a Patek 2499R 2nd series in 1950, it would have cost you $3,000. By 1985 the value would have jumped to $100,000. Today, it’s worth $4-5 million.
Thinking to start a collection, or considering dusting off the watches in your collection?
Here are some experts’ tips.
Tay Liam Wee, Co-founder of WatchBox
Watch For Opportunities In The Watch Market - Tay Liam Wee
Tay Liam Wee, Co-founder of WatchBox
Tay Liam Wee, Co-founder of WatchBox, a global platform for pre-owned luxury watches.
Known for leading his family’s Sincere Watch business in the glory decades at the end of the last century, Liam Wee saw the business change a few hands and that set him up quite nicely. With watches in his blood, it was only inevitable that he would resurface with a new concept, like WatchBox.
His experience in the business spans retailing to grooming luxury brands, and now finding new homes for once-loved models.
When it comes to your watch collection, he says you have to re-curate.

"Over time, a collector’s thoughts and taste will evolve with the knowledge acquired as well as changes and development in creation and industry manufacturing. There will be watches in the collection that don’t resonate with the collector anymore and these may be the items to trade out of to make space for the new."

When it comes to watches appreciating over time, Liam Wee expresses confidence about timepieces of pedigree holding their value.

"My major overview is that mechanical watches overall have appreciated significantly in value. Significant timepieces that have been around for five decades and have appreciated significantly would probably include just about every Rolex model, most of Patek's past and present catalogue."

"The other inflection point in the industry is the beginning of independent watchmaking in the 1990s and 2000s. The indies that have become incredibly expensive and in demand include Francois Paul Journe, Roger Smith, George Daniels, Philippe Dufour, DeBethune and Rexhep Rexhepi."

And for those venturing into watch collecting…?

"First, ask yourself the reason for starting a collection. Is it for the love of watches or is it for asset diversification purposes? If it is the former, you start by buying what you like and what makes you happy. If it is the latter, one has to be more considered. Studying and researching the watches and buying into quality; condition and originality are important factors that are essential."

"Don’t follow the trend of rising prices and buying into hype!"

Alvin Lye, Owner, Monster Time
Watch For Opportunities In The Watch Market - Alvin Lye
Alvin Lye, Owner, Monster Time Gallery
Alvin Lye, Owner, Monster Time Gallery, purveyor of fine vintage Rolex watches.
When it comes to someone trying to estimate the worth of an existing collection, Alvin insists the overriding premise is “condition, condition, condition”.

"You need to be able to identify the trends. Trends come and go, so don’t overpay! If you are buying a watch for a significantly higher price than the official retail price, then you may be buying into a bubble and all bubbles will eventually burst!"

And when it comes to brands that have shown steady appreciation over time, Alvin reckons the industry is going through a correction after 2022.

"A Rolex Daytona 116500 reference was selling close to S$80K in Dec 2021. It is currently retailing in the grey market for $40+K. So, go figure!"

Would the second-hand market be a good place to start a collection?

"If possible, always buy preowned and let the previous sucker take a beating on the price! Try to buy a complete set, with original guarantee papers etc as these hold their values the best."

Ali Nael, Founder & CEO, 2ToneVintage Watches
Watch For Opportunities In The Watch Market - Ali Nael
Ali Nael, Founder & CEO, 2ToneVintage Watches
Ali Nael, Founder & CEO, 2ToneVintage Watches, a collector, appreciator and purveyor of vintage timepieces.
When it comes to handling a collection, Ali’s advice is to have it valued at least annually.

"It’s important to do so for organising, cleaning the collection and maintaining a market view. And also for insurance purposes."

With the prevalence of good-quality fakes, Ali reinforces the importance of buying from reliable and trusted sources.

"If you are doing a private deal, bring the watch in for authentication with an independent valuer before payment. Also, there are lots of collectors online who you can reach out to with questions and advice."

And for those looking to add to their collection, some pieces command a premium, so it’s best to try and get them from a retailer.

"However, there are models that are trading at discounts, so you’d best buy them second hand. Sometimes, you can find one as good as new at a discount."

Also read:

Kannan Chandran

Kannan Chandran has enjoyed a journey that has taken him from print to digital, and words to visuals. Every rock tells a story and under every rock is a deeper narrative.

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